Two Days in Hong Kong （在香港兩天）

At the beginning of the summer I accepted an invitation from BainBain to end my formal Chinese courses at TLI at the end of fall semester and stay with her in her hometown of Houli for a couple weeks and see more places in Taiwan and visit her Rotary Club. We informed the school of this arrangement, but when I went to renew my visa (which was going to expire on November 27th- my last day of classes) I discovered that the immigration office has very strict policies on students who study at private language institutes. BainBain and I tried explaining my scholarship, but they would only permit me to stay in Taiwan for two days after the last day of classes- and just to get these two extra days I had to provide attendance records and an official letter from my school.

I tried asking them if I could apply for a change from a student to visitor visa-no. I asked if they needed a letter from Rotary- no. They informed me that the only way I could stay longer in Taiwan was to leave the country and come back on landing or other visa. Americans can stay up to one month in Taiwan on a landing visa, so after discussing the situation with my host Rotarians, we decided the best way to solve the issue would be for me to go to Hong Kong for a couple days. Danny, one of my host Rotarians, helped me find a good travel package for a flight and two nights in a hotel for less than $350 US.

My visit turned out to be a pleasant adventure. Hong Kong is truly a balance of East and West. There is still much evidence of British colonial rule, but a lot like Taiwan, the culture is distinct and unique. Huge, western-style shopping malls decked out for Christmas, but just a couple blocks away are narrow winding streets of eastern-style markets selling everything from clothes and antiques to fresh fruit and raw meat. The architecture is a mix too, of East and West and old and new. Life in Hong Kong moves at a much faster pace than Taipei, but I found the the many city parks are like an oasis, where many people escape during the day to enjoy and slow, quite lunch.

Not surprisingly, BainBain had a contact in Hong Kong, Ms. Wai Fong Suen, who works on extension projects related to integrating art into school curricula. She went to a training workshop at Lincoln Center in New York in 2001 and began her project in Hong Kong in 2002. She was formerly a theater performance artist, and she has recruited several other local artist to give tours to school children and train teachers to integrate art in to the curriculum. BainBain's current projects deal with promoting farmers' art and art tourism in Taiwan, but she is interested in developing a stronger program with schools, so I brought back information for her from Ms. Suen.

Ms. Suen lives on a island, which is about an hour ferry ride away from downtown Hong Kong. She was a gracious host and showed me around her city, making special note of the public art work on display. Hong Kong is currently hosting the East Asian Games, which is like a regional, mini version of the Olympics. Ms. Suen showed me a special art display called "Making the Familiar Unfamiliar" in Hong Kong Park. It displayed several creative forms of art, and used "e-language" or internet style postings to introduce visitors to the displays in the park; they called it E-Park (click here to see a video). I have uploaded more pictures in two albums online:

Pictures of first day in Hong Kong; Pictures of second day in Hong Kong

Special thank you to Ms. Suen (pictured above) for showing me around Hong Kong and treating me to dinner and to Danny for helping me plan the trip and find my way around Taipei Main Station!

Rotary Speech Competition

Last Saturday was the annual Rotary sponsored speech competition in Taipei (Rotary District 3520). The speech contest was open to all foreign students who have come to Taiwan to study Mandarin, Taiwanese, or Hakka languages. Four students from our language center (TLI) competed, including myself and two other Rotary Cultural Ambassadorial Scholars, Alex and Glorya. None of us won the competition, but we all had great fun, learned a lot of Chinese, and made some new friends in the process.

The speeches were limited to approximately five minutes, and about thirty students presented. Some of the students gave quite interesting performances. Some dressed in traditional Chinese clothing or used props. Ina, a German student from my school, even sang as part of her presentation.

The topic I chose for my speech was "What I know about Taiwan". I told several funny stories about things I have learned about Taiwanese culture, climate, and people. I was very pleased the audience laughed when I shared some of the funnier lessons I have learned. For example, one time when I tried to order a double latte, but ended up with two cups of coffee. Another time, when I first arrived, I mistakenly thought the truck driving around Taipei playing music was an ice cream truck, only to discover it was the trash collection truck. These stories were entertaining enough to be retold in an online article on the contest, the headline read:
"外籍生在台趣事 冰淇淋音樂變垃圾車" (which means: "Amusing incident of foreign student living in Taiwan, ice cream music changes to garbage truck"). I have included an English translation of a couple parts of my speech below. For anyone who is interested, here are links to the full version: Ke Yulian's Speech (English)
柯玉莲的演讲 (中文).

Above: Group photo before the speech, from left to right: Sophia, Ina, Alex, Me, Ms. Chang (TLI director), Sharon (TLI instructor); Delivering my speech. Below: Group photo after competition (don't we look more relaxed?), from left to right: Ina, Glorya, Ms. Chang, TLI instructor, Me, Alex; Sophia (a new friend) and Me.

“Although Taiwan has beautiful scenery, every summer it is subject to typhoons. This year Typhoon Morakot brought the most serious storm damage Taiwan has seen in fifty years. Many people helped people without a home to rebuild. The typhoon allowed me to see the Taiwanese people’s spirit of solidarity, tenacity and generosity. I think it was in this type of spirit Mr. Sun Yat-sen established a free and democratic country, and until now Taiwan has continuously pursued a direction of peace, freedom, and equality...

...Finally, I want you to share four of my own experiences. Please share these with foreign friends who just arrived in Taiwan to prevent them from repeating the same amusing incidents:

1. In my hometown truck that drive around in the evening playing loud music are selling ice cream. In Taiwan, these trucks collect trash.

2. Steamed stuffed buns, deep-fried sweet potatoes, sushi, lemon juice, and ice cream are the best night markets to eat. However, do not do as I did and eat them all in one meal, because foreigners do not have the Taiwanese people’s “iron stomach”.

3. If you do not take my advice, it does not matter, because Taiwan's doctors are amazing!

4. When at home rely on parents, when move away from home rely on friends*. In Taiwan, I really felt the importance of friends. Thank you，everyone!”

*This is a well known Chinese idiom.

Health Care in Taiwan (My Personal Experience)

Over the past week the weather in Taiwan has warmed up quite a bit, so a friend, Bartek, and I decided to go to a beach just outside of Taipei yesterday to enjoy the sun and fresh air. The beach was gorgeous and not crowded; just a few surfers and swimmers were out enjoying the waves.

All was going well until we decided to swim one more time after lunch. The tide was changing and the waves had gotten bigger. We were having fun with getting soaked by the cool waves with several other Taiwanese visitors, when suddenly a wave hit me that was much stronger than I had expected. It knocked me down and the force of the wave dislocated my shoulder. I knew immediately what had happened because I have injured this shoulder before. I went back to the beach to tell Bartek I needed help. Immediately, a Taiwanese father who was on the beach with his daughter called an ambulance.

When the ambulance arrived they tried to put me on a stretcher, but I convinced them that would be more painful to lay down. I sat on a bench instead, and before I knew it we were speeding away, weaving in and out of traffic. My arm jolted with every bump, and every time I would cry out because of the pain the EMT would mark a tally on his clipboard. I begged him for pain medicine but he said he could not give me any until we arrived at the hospital. The drive seemed to last forever.

When we arrived at the small hospital I tried to explain what had happened. They spoke a little English, I spoke a little Chinese, and eventually it all worked out. The hospital was essentially one big room with several beds, a registration counter, and a small desk with a computer which the doctor used to look at x-rays and type reports. It was not crowded, luckily, because there seemed to only be one doctor. After pleading for some kind of pain medicine, the nurse gave me Demerol and took me to get x-rays. The doctor later showed them to me at his desk and explained, in perfect English, that he needed to put me to sleep to reset my shoulder. He said there was a small chance that he could not set it properly. In that case, he said I would need to see a specialist who was only available at a larger hospital about 15 minutes away. He asked if I would rather go there to have my shoulder reset. He was a young doctor, and I asked him if he had done this procedure before. He said he had, to which I replied, "Okay, I trust you".

About an hour later I woke up with my arm back in its proper place. A nurse called for a cab to take us to take to the nearest bus station. Before leaving I paid my fee for the hospital visit. Including the ambulance ride, x-rays, pain medication, and sedative I paid $1886 NTD or $58.30 USD. And this was without a health insurance card- I was amazed.

Based on my personal experience, I think Taiwan has an excellent health care system. I am especially grateful to the nurses and doctor who were so helpful, and to my Polish friend, Bartek, for his patience and concern. The whole thing was quite a surreal experience.

Below: Picture of me in the hospital before they reset my shoulder. Notice the poster of snakes on the wall in the top left hand corner. Bartek tried to make me laugh by saying at least I didn't get bit by a poisonous snake:). The second picture is me back at home; sore but feeling much better.

A Unique Culture

During my two month hiatus from blogging I have visited BainBain's hometown, taken the GRE exam, selected a graduate school, enjoyed a Beijing opera performance, attended a wedding party, and most importantly, developed a better understanding of the Taiwan's culture and relationships with other countries. The status of Taiwan's national sovereignty seems to be a perpetual state of limbo, and several recent national and international events, including the devastation of Typhoon Morakot in August, the celebration of the 60th anniversary of the People's Republic of China in October, and President Obama's first visit to the PRC coming up this month make the issue a salient issue that seems to hang stagnantly over the island.

When I took the GRE a couple weeks ago at National Taiwan University there was a section on the back of the test booklet for state and country (it is an American designed test). When I reached this part of the form the proctor had not yet given instructions on how to complete the section, and I began to contemplate if I should write Taiwan, or ROC, or China in the blank. I also began to wonder if this questions crossed the minds of the other students in the testing room, and if they personally thought of themselves as Chinese or Taiwanese. Since coming to Taiwan this dilemma has been the topic of numerous conversations with my friends, teachers, and acquaintances. Their perspectives and personal thoughts how Taiwan should be viewed by the world vary widely. Some think that Taiwan should become officially part of China, but allowed to continue to operate as a democratic, semi-autonomous region. Another view is that Taiwan should become part of China, but only after China itself has become a democracy. Others hope Taiwan will become a completely independent nation. One friend suggested that Taiwan should be an autonomous, international country that largely refrains from engaging in international issues, but rather serves as mediator for peaceful cultural and economic exchanges.

Although these ideas are quite diverse, I have noticed that these groups all generally agree that sacrificing the democracy and civil rights the country now enjoys are not acceptable in any possible solution. Additionally, all parties seem to prefer the current "status-quo" and stability of limbo to drastic changes of any kind. I believe this is largely because a peaceful and harmonious society is highly valued in both Taiwanese and Chinese societies.

While it is clear that Taiwan has been influenced by China, Japan, the United States and several other countries, it is also obvious to me that the Taiwanese people have developed a culture that is uniquely their own. The use of traditional Chinese characters, the unique textures and flavors of Taiwanese food, the free and diverse opinions the Taiwanese share are evidence are all evidence to of Taiwan's rich history and independent spirit that make it truly unlike any other place on Earth.

What's in a Name?

Above: Fan painted for me by Professor Chiang and Professor Chiang showing me how to write my new Chinese name. Below: BainBain teaching me some calligraphy and my favorite of the paintings in Professor Chiang's studio.
One important lesson I have learned while living in Taiwan is the importance of names and titles in Asian cultures. I was given my Taiwanese name, 柯玉莲 (pronounced "ke yu lian"), by an artist and calligraphy professor, I-han Chiang （姜教授). I met Professor Chiang when I traveled with BainBain to her hometown of Taizhong (台中- which literally means central Taiwan) last August. We were accompanied by friend of BainBain's, Mr. Don Hess, who is an amiable and energetic Rotarian and the former Vice President of Rochester University. He is also the father of Karen Hess, who co-founded the Hess Educational Organization. This company operates mre than 100 English training schools and 60 kindergartens in Taiwan. He and BainBain met last year when she led a Rotary sponsored Group Study Exchange to New York earlier this year.

In Taizhong, we meet up with Kim Cusick, Professor I-han Chiang, and some of BainBain's family. Kim is originally from Minnesota, but is now a permanent resident of Taiwan. Five years ago she came to Taiwan for the first time through a Rotary Group Studies Exchange Program. During the visit she learned of a opportunity to teach English with the Hess Educational Organization, and she almost immediately decided to leave a comfortable career in the U.S. and move to Taiwan. When I asked her what compelled her to make such a drastic move, and she could not give a specific reason, but simply said she knew she needed a change of pace. After spending a weekend with Kim, I realized she is driven by a spirit of adventure and a contagious curiosity about new people, ideas and cultures which I believe is what brought her to Taiwan.

Professor Chiang, is a lively, 83 year-old professor of art and calligraphy, is one of the most interesting and intriguing people I have ever met. He fled to Taiwan from China in the late 1949 after the Communist regime led by Mao Zedung took over China. In Taiwan he studied in the Chinese Literature and Language Department at National Taiwan Normal University. He later studied at the Graduate School of Fine Arts in Taiwan's Chinese Culture University, and eventually moved to the United States to do research at the University of Kansas and Princeton University. He moved back to Taiwan in 1994 to teach painting and sell artwork, though he told me he goes back to the US about every other year to visit his son and daughter in Boston. Since returning to Taiwan Professor Chiang has participated in many exhibitions and served as a visiting professor at several universities.

The weekend we visited Taizhong happened to be the same weekend that Typhoon Morakot, Taiwan's worst storm in 50 years, wrecked havoc on the island. We had planned to travel south to Nantou that Sunday, but the storm was much worse there, so we decided to stay in Taizhong. Since the weather was so terrible, Professor Chiang invited us to spend the afternoon at his art studio. There he showed us several of his works, told us Chinese folk stories, and demonstrated some calligraphy. He also painted a fan for each of us. Since I had not yet chosen a Chinese name for myself I asked him to select one for me. He gave me the name 柯玉莲 (pronounced ke yu lian). He selected 柯 (ke), which means stem, for my surname because it sounds like the "c" in Camp. He selected (yu lian) for my given name, which means jade lotus. Jade is a stone, usually either green or white in color, considered to be very valuable in Chinese culture. Lotus is a type of pink water lily that is native to China and Taiwan and commonly found in paintings. On one side of my fan Professor Chiang wrote “雨新友来” which means "when it rains new friends come". On the other side he painted a budding lotus flower and wrote "玉莲, new life". It was a memorable weekend, and I am looking forward to visiting with Professor Chiang again soon.

Above: Professor Chaing and I with my new fan and a book of his paintings. Below: Don Hess displaying the airplane on Professor Chiang painted on his fan; BainBain and Professor Chiang at his desk and a picture with BainBain's fan.

Tarokyo Gorge and Hualian

This week I took my third Chinese language exam (marking the halfway point of the second textbook) and completed the analytical writing section of the Graduate Record Examination (GRE). My internet at home is currently not working, so I am at a Starbucks near National Taiwan University catching up on some long overdue blogging.

Through the running club I mentioned previously, I became friends with a girl from friend from Canada, Caroline, who is also a member of a mountain hiking club called 523 Mountain Club. The pronunciation of the numbers "5-2-3" in Chinese (五二三）sound like the phrase "I love mountains" (我爱山)- even though the characters do not look the least bit similar. Last month Caroline invited me to join the club on a weekend trip to Taroko Gorge which is on the west coast of Taiwan. The gorge is part of one of Taiwan's seven national parks, and the scenery is breathtaking. In addition to visiting the gorge we were also lucky enough to see the annual water festival, which included a spectacular performance of several aboriginal dances followed by a firework finale. The trip was great fun, and I was especially grateful for the opportunity to make friends with several Taipei residents, including several international students who are also here studying Chinese.
As fate would have it, I ended up taking a second trip to Hualian for a long weekend with the Everwell Rotary Club just two weeks ago. This time we traveled by bus rather than train. Although it took a bit longer the bus was very comfortable and was even equipped for karaoke performances! Several members of the Everwell Rotary Club and their family members went on the trip, and it was a great opportunity to get to know them better.

The first day of our trip we were the honored guests at the annual harvest festival of four local aboriginal tribes. When we arrived we were invited to make a grand entrance to the ceremonies by doing a dance through the center of the grounds. We followed some of the men of the tribe who led the procession carrying one of the Rotarians, Grady, on top of a fake log. During the ceremony, the Everwell Rotary Club presented each of the tribe elders with $1000 NTD. The club also donated $10,000 NTD to help improve educational facilities for the children of the community. This presentation was followed by several dances. We joined in some of the dances, undoubtedly much to the amusement of the locals. That evening we had a huge feast with the tribes that reminded me of Thanksgiving dinner in the U.S. The food included everything from barbecued beef and seaweed to grilled pumpkin and sweet potatoes. We all went back to the hotel that night stuffed and content.

The next day, after a delicious lakeside lunch and quick stop at a papaya milk stand, we drove to Hualian Port, where we took a boat into the ocean to look for dolphins. This endeavor can be hit or miss. One of the Rotarians told me that once he was one a boat for five hours and did not see a single dolphin. That day luck seemed to be on our side, because we saw several groups of dolphins! Later in our hotel we had a joint Rotary meeting with the Hualian Club, followed by dinner. President House and the other Hualian Rotarians were wonderful hosts, and we had a fun evening with them.

On our way home the next day we stopped at two wineries and a greenhouse/water garden. At the greenhouse, in true Martha Stewart fashion, we each made our own mini aquarium out of a glass soy milk bottle. I took great care to give my three little ghost shrimp the cleanest water, the tastiest seaweed, and most decorative seashells. However, they unfortunately only lived for two days. I think my apartment became too hot during the day (last week the heat index was 44C). At the Rotary meeting last week I learned that I definitely was not the only person who failed to keep my shrimp alive, which made me feel a little less guilty.
I am grateful to President Blue, all of the other Everwell Rotarians, and their families for a memorable weekend. I am also especially thankful to Miss Wu (吳小姐) for all of her effort in organizing the trip. It is definitely a weekend I will never forget!